How can I Tell if my EGR Valve Needs to be Cleaned or Replaced?
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve is an important part of the exhaust circulation system of a vehicle. EGR valves have been in use in the United States since the 1960s, when car companies were seeking ways to increase the efficiency of vehicles while also decreasing pollution. When the EGR valve is clogged or malfunctioning, it can cause irregularities in engine performance such as rough idling or valve knock, indicating that the EGR valve should be inspected.
The EGR valve works by routing a small amount of exhaust back into the combustion chamber. When the temperature in the combustion chamber is too high, nitrogen oxides are produced, which combine with elements in the atmosphere to form smog. Introducing a small amount of exhaust into the system reduces the temperature in the combustion chamber, reducing the amount of nitrogen oxides produced.
Many EGR valves are mechanical, and simply have a small valve which opens to allow exhaust into the combustion chamber and closes when it is not necessary, and to keep the air mixture optimal for combustion. Some mechanical versions will not open until there is sufficient back pressure, ensuring that the valve will not be open when the engine is idle or warming up and needs a higher concentration of oxygen for combustion. Electronic EGR valves are also available, and use electronics to regulate the valve.
If the EGR valve is stuck open, it will essentially cause a vacuum leak, leading to inefficient combustion, rough idling, hesitation, and sometimes stalling in extreme cases. This is because the car cannot combust on carbon dioxide from the tailpipe — it needs atmospheric oxygen. If the combustion chamber is flooded with exhaust from an open EGR valve, it will not function properly. To check and see if the EGR valve is stuck open, have someone idle a parked vehicle with the brake on while you examine the plunger shaft to see if it is stuck open.
If the EGR valve is stuck closed, emissions of nitrogen oxides will rise, and the car may start to knock. Spark knock happens when the fuel mixture in the combustion chamber ignites before it has been reached by the explosion in the cylinder, resulting in a disruption of the engine timing. In this instance, the engine should be warmed up and revved to see if the EGR valve will move.
In both cases, simple repairs are possible. The EGR valve can be clogged, and a simple cleaning of a mechanical EGR valve may solve the problem. In the case of an electrically controlled EGR valve or a more complex mechanical problem, replacement of the valve may be needed. The EGR valve is an expensive motor vehicle component, and care should be taken to ensure that it needs to be replaced rather than repaired. A reputable mechanic should advise you appropriately.
Failure to repair or replace the EGR valve will not lead to a life threatening condition, although it will reduce the life of your car and increase the potential emissions. Especially in areas which require smog testing, an automobile with a malfunctioning EGR valve may not pass.
Exactly what is “valve knock”?
I have a 2006 Buick Rendezvous fwd 3.5. My mechanic replaced the EGR valve and gaskets. He cleaned the passages. Now the codes have come up again. He is going to clean it going through the manifold. It seems that if he replaced all the parts, it should not be dirty! Is this a mechanic gimmick or the correct way to fix the problem?
I have a 1998 vs v6 ute. The exhaust was glowing red hot and it's a lot of power. I knocked out the catalytic converter and am still having the same problem. It's running rough and very sluggish. Seems like I've lost a couple cylinders.
I have 1991 Ford F150 with a motor swap from an 89 F150. I went from a 302 to a 351 and it idles high and low and sometimes dies and sometimes knocks when revving it up. But it still has the same computer. What could it be?
I have a hyundai sonata from year 2000. I have to know how many lambda probes does it have. Could anybody help me? Thanks a lot.
I have a 2007 dodge Dakota with the 4.7 and it has a hesitation on take off after a few minutes of idle time. It has logged a random misfire code after an instance of very harsh hesitations. This problem does clear up. Should I be leaning toward a sticking EGR valve?
@anon342287: Sounds like a problem with the mass airflow sensor. It is usually on the large hose that leads from the air filter box to the engine. Remove it and clean it with starting fluid.
@anon342287: If this car were a 1981 and not a 2001, I'd say you needed to check the choke on the carburetor. Your issue does not sound transmission-related at all. If it's shifting all right, then it's not the transmission.
It sounds like you're not getting enough gas, or something along those lines, to the engine, which is causing the bucking and stalling. It could be an EGR valve, an oxygen sensor, a bad spark plug, dirty fuel injectors, or maybe even a bad fuel pump. Sometimes, trash can get in the fuel lines and also cause the problems you're describing.
I'm no mechanic or car expert by any means, but this sounds like a fuel delivery or fuel/oxygen mix issue to me, rather than a transmission problem. Good luck in diagnosing and fixing it!
Some advice and/o guidance is appreciated.
I've pulled three transmissions this week to replace mine on a 2001 Ford Taurus, wrong one, wouldn't fit, wrong motor type, blah blah blah (I am a 27 year old female, and I really would be all right never pulling another one.)
The problem is this. When I turn on the engine and put it in drive, the car starts jerking and sputtering. Once I get going at a consistent speed, it's fine, and at red lights and stop signs I stop, the engine does not stall, the idle is okay, but when I get a green light, it starts acting like it is running out of gas, but it's full. There is no smoke and it does not overheat. I've done the transmission three times, drained all the fluids and refilled what was necessary, and checked for leaks.
I've also checked the fuses and relays. I have recently been reading everything I can and researching, and have seen discussions about an EGR valve. I am not super familiar with this one. I've been told that the transmission was probably not slipping, and instead to check this valve, that it probably just needed cleaning.
If anyone has some advice or guidance of any kind, it's appreciated. Even if it doesn't do the trick, then hey -- I learned something new. Thank you.
I have a Toyota Versa. My car drives OK for a while then slows down and chugs with black smoke coming out. Any idea what could be wrong?
The engine light is on in my 2007 Hyundai Sonata. The shop told me something like, "It's the charcoal emissions valve sensor". How much should that cost and how do I know they are correct? Thanks!
I have a 98 mercury cougar, and I am facing an odd problem. Recently, I've noticed a loud humming noise coming from the front of the car when I go over 40 mph and it only happens when I let off the gas, but do not apply the brakes. So basically when I'm coasting quickly, and when I hear the noise, I feel my car slowing down relatively quickly, not drastically slowing down mind you, just quicker than your typical loss of speed when you lay off the gas. I was told it was my torque converter, and it was a problem, but it just sounds unhealthy and I'm looking for a second opinion. Any help would be appreciated.
I hope this helps to resolve the problems for EGR replacement. I own a 2004 Impala and was ready to get rid of it, but I decided to keep it for a while. I took it to a mechanic. He had his workers remove the intake manifold, clean all the ports, flushed it, cleaned and replaced the manifold, installed the new EGR valve, installed new high quality spark plugs and wires and the fuel regulator needing to be replaced.
I told him to change the oil. (I used synthetic for the first time) oil filter and gas filter. The car runs like the day I bought it back in 2004! I'm keeping it because I love the way it drives and all the transmission codes got erased because now it is accelerating properly and shifts when it reaches the correct mph speed.
How do I clean an EGR out of range and closed on a chevy s10 1998?
I have a 2005 mazda 3 hatchback. As soon as I start the car, I have to keep my feet on the gas. Otherwise it will die right there. Can you guys tell me what is wrong with it?
Two weeks ago I encountered an idling problem with my 2006 Honda Accord V-4 with code P0401 showing on the computer. My Honda dealer cleaned the EGR valve and ports and I am still having problems when I need to stop at a light. The car keeps sputtering and stalls. They charged me 140.00 for the cleaning and now they want another 287.00 to clean the exhaust system and manifold.
Are they on the right track or are they taking me for financial ruin? Please help!
I have a 1995 mercedes E320 wagon, and I have discovered a leak in the air conditioning unit under the car. It is now leaking profusely under the center part of the car. It was absorbed quite quickly and appeared to smell like gasoline. What could be the problem, please? I need an idea before I call my mechanic.
I have a 1992 mercury grand marquis ls 4.6L V8 engine. It drives normally and everything, but when I stop at a four-way stop or a stop sign for too long it dies down a little bit and shakes a little bit, then cuts off but it starts back up perfectly. But when I'm at the stop light and I drop it into neutral, it doesn't cut off. What is the problem here? Could it be a dirty valve? The mechanic at midas today said something like I've got a hole or something in my manifold and it's making a hissing sound and I need to replace the egr tube. Any suggestions? I really need to get this fixed before the winter and I'm running out of time.
I have a 1992 GMC Suburban. I replaced the EGR valve, but there is still knocking and when idle or low speeds, the truck will stall. Do you think I didn't replace it right? Or could it be something else? Please help me! I know very little about cars!
My 1999 Acura CL 3.0 had a EGR related check engine light. The valve was working fine but tube from the EGR valve into the intake manifold was completely blocked with carbon. I had to remove the intake manifold and clean the hole and the tube with carburetor cleaner.
I have a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo that has an EGR issue. We replaced the EGR valve, checked the vacuum lines to the EGR and still the check engine light continues to turn on. This is the third EGR valve replaced on this vehicle and the check engine light continues to turn on.
The scanner reads "401 EGR valve” This vehicle cannot pass emissions testing with the check engine light on. Any suggestions on what to do? Any help would be appreciated.
I need help. I have a 97 mercury cougar and it is saying that 1 and 2 are leaning and that the egr valve is getting excessive air. I have replaced the egr valve the sensor and the solenoid and still I have no power and it won't go above 10 miles an hour. Can anyone give me some help, please?
I have a 2002 Izusu Axiom. The check engine Light came on and the diagnosis was the EGR valve, but the car runs fine. I think it my be affecting my gas mileage but haven't gotten a repair estimate yet. My inspection's not due for a while so I can wait but is this bad for my car? Thanks for any response. --Sally
I have a 2001 Ford Expedition the transmission will not shift right unless it is manually shifted. we have replaced the solenoids in the transmission. can someone help please?
To 87 comment... You need to replace the "crankshaft position sensor" (about $80) that is attached by one bolt. That fixed my car.
EGR valves seem to be a poor attempt at emission control on vehicles. Most people get fed up with them and simply fit an EGR blanking plate from Ebay. This has little or no affect on performance and cars will normally pass an Mot test even though emissions may be raised slightly.
My 2006 Chev Uplander 21,000 miles or 34,300 Km has light on. I had it checked it the reading was code 404 or exhaust valve malfunction.
On a 2007 uplander this valve is covered to 160,000 or so kms. It seems to me GM had problems on 2006 models and rectify this on 2007 and later models but did not inform the owners, (let them suffer and pay when problem comes). So now if the valves has to be changed I pay more than 400 dollars just to by the valve and the kit.
My mechanic cleared the code using the hand held reader but the light came on after driving 20 miles.
I am told I can drive the car if I do not worry about exhaust emissions too much. No problems driving so far.
02 caravan engine light is on. The van runs good in drive but when coming to a stop idles rough and tries to stall completely. could this be my egr valve? if so, where can i locate this to change or clean it? some one help please.
I have a sonata Hyundai 2.4, 4 cylinder car. last week when i was in Virginia beach, my car had a starting problem. And i dropped my car at citgo gas station workshop. The mechanic checked my car with the computer and told me the car's two sensors were bad and he needed to replace them. I gave permission for that.
He fixed the two sensors and my car started. he charged me $554.92 for that. I got back home, and again my car would not start, so i decided to go with a hyundai dealership workshop and i dropped my car off at brown's in manassas va.
There, one mechanic told me my car had a problem with the starter and egr valve. now he is working on my car. The mechanic gave me estimate for egr valve plus labor of $550.00 and $450.00 for starter included labor, so is that correct or not? I am still worried about whether my car will perform properly or not. please give your expert opinion. thank you. Jaysukh K.
I have a 95 Ford Ranger. the problem I'm having with her is I'll be driving and all of a sudden she will be like she is starving for gas and stall out. then if i try to start it again she does the same thing and i have to wait about 20-30 mins to drive her. Could this be my EGR valve?
'89 F150 5.0 with a broken EGR tube / AIR pipe. What happens in this case with a broken tube.
Recently had stalling problem with 2001 Vauxhall Zafira. Garage replaced EGR valve, stuck open. Cost £168 fitted, runs perfect now.
I have a 2004 dodge intrepid.When i crank it up, it always dies right in. I have to keep my feet on the pedal for it to stay on, but once i take my feet off it dies right there. Please advise me. Thanks
I have a '98 Chevy Malibu. The car started stalling back in August, and would stall at nearly every red light. It would only act up after driving for a while, when the engine heated up. The stall disappeared for a while, then reappeared in September.
I had the engine checked, and it was registering as an EGR Valve error. Yesterday, the check engine light turned off. Today, within five minutes of turning on my car and leaving my house, the car stalled completely. Would not turn back on, the exhaust choked, and gas leaked all over the road. I am trying to find out what the problem is, but no one seems to be able to come up with a consistent solution.
#75 unhook your battery for about a minute. it should reset your computer, and hopefully your light will go out.
#84 with the dodge intrepid. Dodge had a recall on what you posted. Take to a dodge dealer and the repairs will be made free of charge and paid for by Dodge. It is a gas leak -- that's why you smell the gas. I have a '97 intrepid and it was my main complaint. I got it done and never smelled the gas again.
Only other problem with this vehicle and front end work due to heavy engine but it hauls. Love my intrepid.
I have a 97 intrepid 3.5l when the heat is on it smells like gas really bad. then i noticed gas leaking from the exhaust pipe. My check engine light is on and the computer read the egr valve does need to be changed. Could this be the problem?
To 10494,1 the person with the 96 Dodge Intrepid: unless you have some type of sentimental connection to that vehicle, do not let any mechanic trick you into spending 2,000 bucks on that vehicle. It is probably worth 300 bucks on Kelly Blue Book. Change the EGR system and vacuum hoses, pcv valves and be done with the car after that.
I have a 98 chevy cheyenne and it runs fine until i get to about 60 and when i hit the gas it just starts bogging out like it does not want to go. It starts jumping and hesitating during this it feels like it is maxing out in speed but something is wrong i just do not know what i changed the plus, wires, rotator cup. it still does it. what could be the problem?
Toyota Avensis 2L D4D starts in the morning and I drive for seven miles no problem, slow down change gear and accelerate, extreme loss of power and black smoke and slight smell of burning Diesel inside the car. Car is with Toyota, so far they haven't found any obvious problems apart from two injectors are slightly on the high side. Any ideas?
I have a 2003 Mitsubishi montero sport. i had my check engine light on just to find out my egr was bad, but it will drive fine until now? when the car is well warmed up it will stop whenever i get to a stop sign or stop at the red light. please does anyone have an idea why? is it the egr causing that problem or something else? any advice will do. thanks.
i have a vauxhall vectra sri 140. 2000 x reg. my engine management light recently came on and my car won't go past 4 - 5 k revs, as if its in limp mode, (so I've read and heard ) but i took my car for a m.o.t today and it failed on a few things which I'm getting fixed on wednesday.
One of the items was a major leak of gases in the middle section of the exhaust. could this cause the problem i described above? also failed on a insecure steering rack and a upper suspension arm has excessive play on a ball joint. will my engine management light go off when the above problems are fixed? please give me as much info as you can. greatly appreciated to all that can help. thank you.
i have a 1998 GMC 3500. when i start it up it doesn't seem like it's going to stay running. it has to build up then it runs but bad. once i get it to running it's no problem. When i stop at a light then it runs funny again. could this be the EGR Valve?
Usually you have to go a certain speed (usually 55 mph or over then decelerate and the light should come up because the car will notice the emissions aren't coming out the same.
If unsure, it can be anything from a sensor to the cat so just go to a place where they have a hi-tech computer so they can check what is wrong exactly. They may charge you some money but its worth it so you won't be wandering around fixing the parts that don't need fixing in your car. 94 camaro 3.4L
I have a 98 honda accord ex v-6. the check engine light was on. it failed smog test because of that. i took it to a mech and he said i had to replace the egr valve so I said okay, then it came back on so i took it back and they said the passage had to be cleaned.
i paid again and got it cleaned but it came back on again so i took it back and they said the sensor was bad so we got a new one in it but the light came back on. i took it back then and they said it was the computer so i replaced it yesterday.
today the check engine light came back on again. the only thing i did today was try to start it with the previous key (i lost the key and got the part replaced and got a new key set. then i found the key after getting the new set lol) so i accidentally tried to start it with that old key then i noticed the light was on again! It's a nightmare!
Any ideas? i need it fixed for it to pass the smog test. thanks. --thalia
i have a 98 honda accord ex had chk eng light on and it failed smog. took it to a mech. said it was the egr valve i got it replaced next day came back on. said the passage should be cleaned out. paid again to get it cleaned. next day light on again. took it back said a sensor. got the sensor from honda dealer and got it replaced. light still on. then they said the computer was bad. got it replaced yesterday. freakin check engine light came back on today! the only thing i did today was tried to start the car with the previous key(changed it after losing it, found it 2days later! lol) well i tried to star it with that key then i noticed the light was on again!! any ideas?....SOME ONE HELP ME PLEASE!
I have a 95 Tacoma 4WD 3.4 V6. My engine keeps running hot. I keep getting a P0420 code saying catalyst efficiency below threshold at bank 1. So i put a new converter on still same code. New 02 sensors new thermostat new radiator hoses and all, could this be my EGR going bad? I'm not losing water so it's not the head gasket or water pump.
I have a 1998 mazda protege. The first cylinder piston broke into a few pieces and also bent and broke the connecting rod. some of the parts, like the connection rod bottom half, came out the back of the oil pan, with a bang.
the engine would still start on the other three cylinders and propel the car but with the hole in the pan it could not hold oil, so it was not run like this for long. There is no evidence in the cylinder to show why this took place. Can anyone explain?
i have a 1992 ford ranger 3.0 v6 and the truck idles up and down an sometimes stalls. i thought it is the egr valve but the check engine light isn't on. what else could this be? Please help.
I too have a 96 Intrepid,just spent almost $2,000.00 changing gasket head and everything else. Brought it back to the mechanic and he said that his diagnostic was telling him that something was wrong with the egr valve. I'm starting to think that this was the problem all along and I spent money for nothing.
I don't know what to do. After reading all these comments. I know that my car has lost power and before I spent the two grand my car was also revving low and wanting to stall. Does anyone have a clue, because I'm tired of mechanics telling me it's one thing and it's not.
I have a 2000 Suzuki Esteem and the engine light came on but it runs great. Recently, spark plugs changed and engine light on went off. Had a diagnostic done and it said the EGR flow is bad, but it runs great. Should I replace or clean out the EGR valve? Please suggest what should I do now? Replace the EGR valve or leave it like this?
I have a 96 Dodge Intrepid 3.3 v6.
After some power loss and very rough idling I noticed that the egr transducer was melted. I replaced the egr assembly and it worked for about five days. I looked and the transducer is again melted. Any idea why it would do that and how do i fix it? Thanks.
I have a 2001 Ford Expedition that has 156K miles on it. It has been serviced well and I am the 2nd owner. However, for the past six months, the vehicle has had the check engine light on and the codes came back and needing to oxygen sensors and a problem with the EGR. I had the EGR valve cleaned, not replaced, and the vehicle is still not running at its optimum. It hesitates as if it is not getting enough gas and is sluggish at take off. The vehicle has just been tuned up.
Before I spend any more money, I would like to know if the EGR is more than one component and how do I know which component is bad?
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger truck with 30,200 miles on it.It has been well taken care of and detailed every year. The fuel filter has been changed 2,000 miles ago.
The problem I now have is that the engine will not start after driving for a while, upon having made one or two stops for a short period of time for shopping. This has happened four times over the past few months. I took it to a gas station for repair they kept it there for several days and replaced the spark plugs costing me $395 and said the EGR valve was leaking, which I have not replaced.
Last night the same thing happened. I drove the truck for about a half hour, turned it off for about 15 minutes and then it would not start. Whenever this happens, it finally starts after a period of about one hour waiting, and all is back to normal. I would be glad to replace the EGR valve myself, it is not that difficult, but before I spend that sum of money do you think it may be the problem or is it more complex having to to with computers and the electrical system? Respectfully submitted -- Gene
I have a '97 Ford Explorer. The engine light has been on for a while--no problems, just 'running lean'. But now that I'm trying to pass emissions, I keep getting a Fail on my EGR system. I changed the EGR valve, turned off the engine light, but it came on again. What should I do now? Thanks.
I have a 1994 Pontiac Sunbird and when our check engine light came on, the mechanic said it was because of our oxygen sensor. I replaced that thing like three times now and now my car is starting to stall and make a bad metal grinding and rattling noise when I start it up.
I have a valve knock. I'm wondering if my engine is starting to go out on me. If anyone has any thoughts or even answers then please help. Thank you!
Most of the problems I have read here describe a problem with the EGR, but not the EGR valve itself. It sounds as if your egr port plugs are clogged with carbon. By removing the plugs from the intake manifold (not easy) and cleaning out the plugged holes of carbon buildup and putting in new plugs will resolve this problem! This particular problem appears out of nowhere one day.
It appears when you are shifting from a stand still at a light from first to second to third gear, under 2500 -3500 RPMs. The engine acts as if it's getting no gas/power at all and jerks a little like it's going to stall.
Usually, letting off the gas and then feathering the gas returns it to normal operating condition, but it will repeat once in a while out of the blue.
The intake manifold has EGR plugs in them. My 1992 Honda accord four-cylinder it has four front and two rear plugs in the intake manifold. they look like small round circles machined right on the manifold leading into the head, but they are actually plugs. The plugs themselves cost pennies each from your dealer. Some parts may have to be removed to gain access meaning a few more dollars for new gaskets depending on vehicle model.
Tip: don't forget to bend a soft wire etc, to scrape up under the inside of the hole, inside the manifold, and remember to vacuum out as much carbon and most importantly and especially any metal shavings as you can, use a small rubber hose taped to a vacuum cleaner.
Remember after you have assembled all, anything left inside gets sucked into the head, so be patient and through, and buy lots of extra plugs (they are only pennies) in case you lose some. Doing yourself takes time if you are careful. Tools are not too expensive, and parts are very cheap. But a quote from my dealer was 400-700 dollars stating each mechanic has their own special tricks to doing this.
I hope this helps. Before doing this I changed my fuel filter, plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, main relay, the EGR valve itself, etc., and still had the problem.
I finally found some threads online and changed these plugs and problem hasn't returned yet.
Hope this helps some of you and saves you some money. Thutch6624
i have a 2004 renault scenic. I'm having problems with my egr valve. the garage i bought it from said they cleaned it before i took it home as the check emissions light was appearing on the dash. a couple of weeks later the check emissions lit up on the dash again. could anyone tell me if this is the egr valve or something else?
i have an 89 chevy s-10. at first when i started it, it would rev up high and then way low and it would do it about four or five times and then smooth out.
Well, i was told it might be the egr valve so i changed it and now when i start it it dies unless i give it gas. When it does say running though, it's idled way low and putters but then smooths out.
When i drive it doesn't have any power like before. The engine light isn't on and hasn't come on since i replaced it. the new one doesn't even look like the old one but they said it was the same #. So I'm lost now. Please can someone help me? thank you.
In response to #19, I have a 07 Chrysler 300, and just today my engine light came on. But your description is exactly what my car has been doing since I had it. I bought it back in 08. Anyway, it when I was at at light or idle, it seems like the car would always act like it wanted to cut off, almost like a coughing and then rev itself back up. But it never cut off.
In the last couple weeks, it's been jerking when I barely tap the gas, and it jerks after I start it and shift into gear. This morning, the light comes on, I take it to get checked and they say the EGR sensor. Now after reading these posts, it seems the EGR could be considered as more than 1 component, meaning valve vs sensor. By the way, the mechanic reset my light, but I know I need to get this resolved, because they told me it could lead to other issues.
For all those asking how to clean an egr valve: a can of carburetor cleaner and/or a wire brush usually does the trick. Also, you can sometimes force carbon out of the valve by moving the valve mechanism up and down with a screwdriver while applying carb cleaner. Hope that helps!
My egr valve, assuming that is the problem, is not operating right. I got it plugged up on small portable device that read out codes, and it said my egr valve is the mean problem.
The problem that the egr valve is causing is while I am driving, it completely cuts off at times and take about 10 or 15 minutes to start back up.
At first, it used to cut off after I had been driving for a while and the rpms get low, causing it to cut off if i didn't keep the rpm up, which I did by avoiding stop signs and or staying on highways.
Now the problems have increased. Could you be so kind to tell me what I should do to solve the problem.
I have a 93 Nissan stanza Altima and it was stalling when I come to a light, or when i start the car would stall before I could shift the car into gear (automatic trans). my tech told me was the egr, so I changed it, and still had the problem. then he changed the idle air control valve.
It still stalled, so I took it to Nissan and found out was a gas problem I was using E-10 Ethanol gas in my car which Nissan told me to fuel with gas not having Ethanol gas, so I found gas at a boat marina which did not have Ethanol.
And my car is running good now, no more stalling and I got my 41 mpgs back, from the 29 it was doing.
So I think some of the problems on this board is due to the use of ethanol in gasoline. hope this was helpful.
I have an 87 Ford F-150 okay, and like I've done everything.
I've done a tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, transmission fluid, etc.), but i found out it was missing in the first and second cylinder and i flipped the 1st and 2nd injector with the 5 and 6 injector and found out it was my injector and that fixed it a little but it still acting up. It runs but stutters a lot and it smokes behind the EGR valve but I'm not sure if it's my position sensor or the EGR valve itself. how can i check this?
98 BMW 740i. Runs fine cold; but, when warm, stumbles above 3500 RPM. Check engine light flashes, then I lose two cylinders until I shut down and restart. Tried new coils, plugs- now what? Fault codes don't pinpoint anything.
I have an 89 Isuzu Trooper four-wheel drive, 265K km, automatic 2.6L F.I.
It starts up every morning fine and dandy with fast idle (as it is still frosty here) and I can cruise around town (30-40mph) for about let's say eight miles. As the engine temp is approaching the normal range, the car idle speed is kicking down. It gets to the point where when I approach a stop, I must have one foot on the brake and the other feathering the gas pedal to keep the revs up. Otherwise it dies. If it does die, I have to wait at least 20 minutes before I can restart the vehicle.
Battery is good, plugs changed 12 months ago, air cleaner is clean, and fuel filter is OK. The vehicle does not burn oil, and this problem slowly started several months back. The mechanics I took it to are either not looking for an EGR or the car does not have an EGR.
Dumb here as to that info at this moment. Perhaps someone would know where I should start in trying to fix this thing.
As noted, a clogged egr valve can cause engine knock, which is actually the fuel exploding and not burning. Higher combustion chamber temperatures. Serious engine damage will occur eventually. I have seen it. A hole burned right through the side of piston. Replaced engine, test drove, egr code, customer: That's check engine light has been on forever!
I have a 1991 Honda Accord and I fail the smog test. The smog tech said I was burning too much gas. I believe I need a egr vacuum solenoid. I hope that is it. if not can someone help me?
One of the vacuum lines coming off the egr hardline going to the sensor kept blowing off.
i finally clamped it down and it ended up melting through the side. The pressure coming through is so much that even with it clamped down it would still blow off the line, until it finally goes through the side.
Now I can't get more than 1500 rpms, and 20mph max. Any ideas about what might be causing this? 95 ford explorer 2wd. 4.0L V6. any help would be appreciated.
I have 2002 Intrepid checked on the machine. it stated that I had a EGR fault. the part was ordered in October, but as of today it has not arrived yet. What should I do to fix my problem?
OK I have a 98 expedition 4.6. I just put a used transmission 80,000 miles two weeks ago (Note: It ran fine shifted fine before with old transmission. There were metal chunks in the pan so I changed it). It ran fine shifts great and it seems there is no metal or slug in pan.
Anyway here's my problem: all of a sudden today it started idling rough and died every time I stopped. Then it will start back up but leave the stop sluggish then once you get moving, it's fine till I have to stop again. Now I have it home. I get in and start it and then put it in reverse and it runs fine. no drop in rpms. then when I put it in drive it stutters then dies every time. I already changed the neutral switch so that's out. Could it be a sensor or something? I used all of my old sensors and solenoids from my old transmission. Any help would be much appreciated.
i have a 1996 f-150 5.0 five-speed and every time i shift the engine takes a long time to come down, even when i push the clutch all the way to the floor. could this be the egr valve?
we have an astra, and have had problems with it for months. one garage told us to clean out the throttle bobble, which seemed to help on temp basis, but it failed it's mot and needed a new egr, which has sorted the problem. it was stalling, bucking and missing on acceleration.
if you have tried egr - i suggest trying cleaning out the throttle bobble.
I have a 2000 mercury cougar and the check engine light came on yesterday. I took it up to autozone and they said that excessive flow is detected. I also have a cold air intake on my car, is it possible that the two have anything to do with each other?
i have a hyundai sonata 2000. i have a random cylinder misfire and insufficient egr flow. when i accelerate to fast my car just shutters really bad and its gets worse throughout the day. In the morning when i put the car in reverse it will idle and shutter idle and shutter only when i have to AC on max and when i turn the air of if goes away when it idles. I don't know. Comments on what to replace? EGR is mechanical.
I have nissan almera 2,2 dci 2000 year.
If I clean the EGR valve, will the computer in car be reset?
In case I shut down the EGR valve, will the horsepower be higher than usual?
How can I shut down the EGR valve?
whats the best thing to clean a egr valve? i've heard that soaking it alcohol is good.
I have a 2002 Ford Focus and the engine light came on but it runs great. In fact we just had an exhaust leak fixed, fuel filter changed and plugs and wires replaced. Had a diagnostic done and it said the EGR flow is bad, but it runs great. Should I replace or clean out the EGR valve?
try replacing your Lambda sensor when doing a diagnostic test the egr valve can show as faulty, but most of the time it's the lambda sensor.
this sensor is connected to the valve and lets the exhaust system know when there is little oxygen or too much carbon within the system.
when this is broken, a new one is needed but try cleaning the sensor rather than paying £60 just for the part.
#14 sounds like you have a blown head gasket
my great friend has a 99 ford expedition. On the advise of two mechanics, we went ahead and changed the egr valve and the egr solenoid. The original problem which is check engine light went off, then came on again both times. What else can be a potential problem? And, oh! that's what the diagnostic testing says also.
Hope you can help! My friend is a very nice guy and that niceness can also be seen in the way he appreciates his vehicles! Thanks. --Skyrone
I have a 2001 mercury cougar. It starts to jerk when I am driving in slow traffic and when I am circling trying to find a parking space. The mechanic cleaned the egr and check engine light went out but next day it came back on and the problem is still there.
i have a nissan 2004 frontier. i am not getting a vacuum signal coming out of my egr electrical solenoid. could it be the egr valve causing the problem? the solenoid tested OK.
I have a 2001 Audi A3. My car struggles to idle and when i break the car dies and the battery light comes on. If i leave the car off for 20 minutes or so the car will turn back on but will die once i start to break. We have been advised that it could be the EGR valve. Could it really be?
I have a 2002 clio 15 dci. It had been losing power and black smoke coming out of exhaust. Got a mechanic to check it out. he changed the egr valve and ran some cleaner through the exhaust to clear the black carbon. everything is OK now!
i have a 1995 grand marquise. i replaced the dpfe and the solenoid but still the car runs like new, but the check engine light still comes back on and says eger insufficient air flow. i'm thinking it could be the temperature sensor but i'm not sure. i have vacuum because i pulled off the vacuum to the solenoid. Can anyone answer this?
when i try to start my car it will not star. the only way i can start my car is by hitting the gas and then it will work and i smell an odor of gas outside my car. could it be the egr valve?
2004 silverado v6 engine at low r.p.m. I replaced fuel filter and it ran fine for about 10 miles then the same problem. I shut it off once but restarted and later parked. now it will turn over but not crank.
I have Mazda pertage 98 1.5 L--showing engine Check-sign--went to computer diagnostic test--got codes-P0400---means EGR valve is not working well---my engine is rough idle--feel jerks while sitting idle and engine on.---should i need replacement or cleaning the valve?
I bought a car 4 weeks ago and after a day the engine light came on..also my dash board lights and front lights were flashing and car jumpy a bit when stationary in traffic...brought it back to garage and they fixed it...2 days later same thing happened...garage changed EGR valve and engine light is staying off now but all other problems are there...Any comments
Our vehicle has been running idling rough for a while until it warms up then runs smooth. Could it be the EGR valve? Help! Tired of spending money.
How do I replace an Egr Valve on 2001 Ford Ranger?
I have a ford taurus. The check engine light is on and the codes say insufficient flow. I have changed the egr valve regulator. I found a leak in the egr tube.
I fixed that, but the light came back.
for the 300zx, the egr valve is opened by vacuum, which is controlled by the bpt valve and a vacuum switching solenoid. check those vacuum lines, and see if your car idles roughly when you press up on the diaphragm under the egr valve.
My 1992 Chrys, NYr will loose power at around 60mph or below sometimes.
It will also jerk/choke when idled at a traffic light.
My gas mileage also varies from good to bad.
Could this be my egr or my tranny?
I have a 2007 Chrysler 300 Touring. It has almost 36,000 miles on it. I have taken it in to both a Chrysler dealer and a Dodge dealer because it has died a couple of times, but mainly because it chokes down like it is going to die while it is idle. It is not pulling any codes. The Dodge guy said the EGR valve was bent, so they replaced that, but it is still doing it. They said it is normal for the TAC to bounce up and down little and that what it is doing to also normal. Has any one had this problem, or have any suggestions?
I had an 87' Plymouth voyager LE, 2.6L engine, where can I secure an EGR valve (Mitsubishi engine)
I had been all around and no luck.
hi there I've got a ford galaxy 1.9tdi 2002 my egr valve is leaking oil out of the a small hole underneath the valve im filling up my oil about half a liter a wk is this common and do i need to replace it will it cause further damage im taxi driver so im doing bout 1,000 miles a wk all replies will be helpful thanks .
I have an 86 Chevy Silverado with a newer 5.7 v-8. It is equipped with a factory quadrojet four barrel carb, and a single wire HEI distributor. The engine is equipped with a factory EGR valve, but not using any engine management ECM, I would like to eliminate t EGR valve completely. I am concerned with how this will effect my fuel milege. I'm not worried about emissions, as I am running a HHO (hydrogen generator) system, so emissions are near zero. At present I am getting 39.7 mpg which isn't bad for and old gas burner.....
I was wondering if anyone can tell me if my egr is bad? I just had new plugs distributor and rotor put in my van and every since when I start it, a bunch of white smoke comes out it a big white cloud, is this the egr valve? I know I have to replace all the rubber hoses. Please help! Thank YOU! norma
"Posted by: terryp
If an EGR valve is bad, would it cause the car to lose the ability to rev higher then 4000 RPMs? I have greatly lost gas mileage and my Honda Accord won't get higher then 4000 RPMs and takes a long time to shift. The check engine code says an EGR valve but I also had a new engine put in recently. I don't want to spend un-needed money if possible."
I would check the vacuum hoses first. its would cause this prob;em it happens to mine at 2500 rpms.
I have changed the egr valve and vacuum hose on my 96 Dodge Intrepid, the light stills comes on after a couple of days. Same problem. Any suggestions?
I have a 2000 Honda Accord and I recently changed my EGR Valve. The problems with the idle have been corrected, but I have noticed a significant drop in my fuel mileage. Any suggestions?
I have a 1994 cutlass supreme 3.1 v6 and the code 75.76,77 come up it means EGR solenoid malfunction what should i do to clean. and how do you clean it or replace?
If an EGR valve is bad, would it cause the car to lose the ability to rev higher then 4000 RPMs? I have greatly lost gas mileage and my Honda Accord won't get higher then 4000 RPMs and takes a long time to shift. The check engine code says an EGR valve but I also had a new engine put in recently. I don't want to spend un-needed money if possible.
My 2002 1.9 cDi Scenic developed terrible power loss after 50K miles. After much fault finding I reluctantly took it to Renault. They replaced the electric powered EGR valve at a cost of £260. The heavy solenoid/valve/sensor and gasket were £180. The 1.25 inch diam push-on poppet valve end had come off the stem. Reading more about it I think it could possibly have been tack welded back on?
you should check and/or clean your fuel injectors.
I have a 96 Ford Ranger. 4.0...
The check engine light came on...showed insufficient flow !!
I changed the egr valve..everything looked clean!!
Light came back on..I changed the vacuum sensor!!
Light came back on..shows two codes..insufficient flow and excessive flow!! Any ideas??
where is the erg valve in a 1997 mazda millinia and is it possible to clean it?
I have a nissan 300zx which is having a problem with the egr... Will the egr be affected if i have an exhaust leak because of a burned gasket or a hole in the manifold? how exactly does it open, by the pressure sent by the exhaust or by th vacuum force? thanks
I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring SLI 2dr. coupe... Engine light came on... mechanic checked 2 different days & said EGR valve showed a problem. After "re-setting" today, the engine light has not come back on.... could the problem have resolved itself? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
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